Too few people realize that very basic maintenance procedures are required to maintain a tank-type water heater and keep it working properly and efficiently.
When the water flows into the water tank, the soil, sand, and other minerals deposited on the floor. Based on the water quality, these additional “ingredients” will add up easily robbing the capacity of the water heater and costing you in the long run. When left unchecked, they will not only make your tank-type water heater function harder but also cause your tank to rust and eventually eat away before you need to remove the whole machine, which is very costly but easily preventable. Too easy to avoid it! What you need is a pump, bucket (optional), and gloves (optional too, but better with).
Things to be considered for maintenance
Check the TPR Valve
Switch off the fuel source and the cold-water pump switch.
Place the bucket under the pipe attached to the temperature-pressure-release valve (TPR) on the top or side of the tank-type water heater’s tank. (This valve opens when the pressure of the tank becomes too high.)
Lift the valve tab to allow some of the water out, and let it go. When the water begins to flood, empty the tank partway, unscrew the old valve with a pipe wrench, and add the new valve.
Check the rod of the anode
Now put a 1 1/16-inch socket on the hex head of the rod on top of the heater (or under its top plate) and unscrew the plug. Whether it is smaller than 1⁄2-inch-deep or covered with calcium, purchase a fresh one, cover it with Teflon tape, place it back in the tank, and lock it tightly. Using this segmented rod when the headroom above the tank is small.
Drain the tank and drain the water
Drain the residual water in the tank into the bowl, then move the sediment to the bottom of the tank by momentarily removing the cold-water supply door. Rinse before the new water drains out of the hose.
Open the drain button, empty the reservoir, and turn it back on.
Switch the temperature to match
Find the temperature knob on the side of the tank and unscrew the cover. Using a flathead screwdriver to change the knob to 120 degrees. You should hope to save up to 5% in electricity prices for every 10 degrees of temperature drop.
Turn the water heater off or the thermostat down to its lowest setting if you are planning to stay away from home for more than three days.
Isolate the tubing
Purchase a 3/8-inch thick plastic pipe insulation that suits the tubing width.
Slide the foam around the hot and cold water tubing as long as you can. The lining of the cold-water tubing avoids condensation in heat.
Peel the tape and remove the insulation. If the pipe is 6 inches or less from the flue, cover with 1-inch-thick fiberglass pipe wrap.
Isolate the boiler
Cut the insulating sheet (shown: R-4.5 foil-covered bubble wrap) to match around the tubing, the TPR pump, and the temperature regulator out of the tank.
Wrap the side of the tank and cut the seal with the foil tape. Do not cover the top of the oil or gas heaters.
Seal an electronic heater with an excessive insulation shield, then tie the bottom of the heater tightly to the surface of the tank.
How you can maintain a tank-type water heater?
Step 1: Locate the tank-type water heater
First of all, you ought to learn where your tank-type water heater is. This is quite easy. It is supposed to be in your garage.
Be patient, please! You are going to be working with gas/electricity and really hot water and steam.
Step 2: Determine if it is gas or electrical
It needs to be easy enough. Look inside the tank itself and read all the notices and signs. When you do not tell whether there is a sure sign of an explosion, the pilot’s light chances are the air.
Note: Read the instruction on the tank to turn off the gas or electricity. Do not just do it unless you know what you are doing.
Step 3: Locate the water shut-off switch, the pressure release mechanism, and the water drain
The hot cut off valve mounts at the top of the water heater. Usually, it appears like small water pipes used by the front and back yards.
The pressure release mechanism mounts on the end of the pipe as well. There will be a sticker above it. There is a wire running out of the water heater and through the ground. The continuation of this pipe should be on the other side of the wall. It is usually in the front yard or in the way of the entrance. Make sure there is no obstruction in the pipe.
There is a water drain on the bottom. This is typically a flat board that has loops such that the hose connects to it.
Step 4: Switch off the Source of Heating and Collect Supplies
Now that you know where your water heater is and what it is working with (gas or electrical) you are ready to do your annual maintenance. Please ensure that the gas is turned off to the water heater (if electricity) or that the circuit breaker turns off if electrical. (Read the notes carefully.) I did so the night before. It prevents the resources you use to pump up the bath that you will shortly be dumping. You may not need to heat the water you are not using.
Step 5: Turn on the water drain and then open the pressure release valve
The water is pumped out of the hose and then gradually halted. It is because the pressure release valve gets unscrewed to enable air to reach the tank.
Do not worry if the water is a little dirty at first. This is because of mud and sand in the tank. This is why you are trying to remove it. Get all of the sand out of there.
Wait 10-30 minutes to allow the water to drain.
Step 6: Turn the water to Flush the majority of the contaminants away.
Take the bucket and place it under the sink.
With the pressure valve still open, switch on the water to the water tank and turn on the water drain to enable the majority of the sediment to be flushed out. Allow a few gallons of water to remove. Be sure to check the outflow of the water and make sure it is clear. If this is the case, you can refill the tank.
Step 7: Refill the tank
Once the tank is full, the gas or circuit breaker can switch back on. Caution: Do not turn on the heater until the tank is full. When the tank is not complete, the machine can gets damaged by heating.
Kick back, relax, and appreciate the hot water that is going to run to heat you up more quickly. You have had a whole year to sit to do this work again.
Note 1: If you like, you can remove a few gallons a month from your tank, particularly if you live in an environment with a lot of sediment in your water. You do not require a hose for that. Only use the bucket to carry this month to the month.
Note 2: When you find any leakage in the water valves or friction controls, make sure that they are secured properly. There is a packaging nut just below the knob that can increase the flow if desired. If the leak continues, there is a fair risk that they have not been used long and need repairing. So make sure to do this routine maintenance and maintain the valve running correctly as well!
Conclusion
A tank-type water heater acts as a reservoir of water and when water stands for a long time, there is bound to be some minerals that will accumulate in the walls, the floor, and inlet, outlet pipes of the water heater. This is why proper maintenance is necessary to keep your tank-type water heater up and running for a long time. Hopefully, this guide will help you maintain your water heater.
